Sidestand switch bypass - KLR650.NET - Your Kawasaki KLR650 Resource!

flanga · 01-22-2007, 05:16 PM

Total cost: about 60 cents. And it really was only 5 minutes, with no soldering needed.

I'll show the kickstand bypass, but you can do the same thing for the clutch.

No need to disconnect anything. Just remove the vertical black switch cover on the left side of the bike. Snip the wires (brown/green+white) leading from the kickstand to the red plug under the seat. Securely crimp on insulated quick-disconnects (available at any hardware or autoparts store). Alternate male/female ends so they can connect together. Like so:

Elapsed time: maybe 2 minutes so far.

Next, take a hunk of scrap wire (a few inches--- length is mostly irrelevant) and crimp quick-disconnects to each end, male on one end, female on the other, or whatever gender you need to mate with the quick-disconnects you put on the upper wires. Thus:

Elapsed time: maybe 3.5 minutes

To bypass the kickstand switch, just plug the scrap wire into the upper quick-disconnects, as a jumper between them:

I tucked the lower wires coming up from the kickstand out of the way, and filled the quick-disconnects with dielectric grease.

Put the cover back on (1 screw) and you're done--- in five minutes or less.

If/when you want to reactivate the switch, just remove the jumper and reconnect the upper and lower wires. You can reactivate/deactivate the switch by installing and removing the jumper as often as you need to in about 2 minutes or less. No muss, no fess, no soldering--- and for pennies.

MapBoy · 01-22-2007, 06:25 PM

Awesome post Fred!
I am electrically incompetant, but even I will be able to follow those instructions.
Nice pics too!
Well Done!

imported_ktrout37 · 01-22-2007, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MapBoy

Awesome post Fred!
I am electrically incompetant, but even I will be able to follow those instructions.
Nice pics too!
Well Done!

2nd!

wingerr · 01-22-2007, 07:07 PM

Just as a variation on the theme, you could also crimp on the disconnects with a male and female on the switch side, and also on the harness side, so you don't have to carry around the extra jumper.

To bypass, all you would then need to do is just connect the male to female on the harness side.

oregon07klr · 01-22-2007, 07:28 PM

Seems simple but have been wondering for a while now, what is the purpose of disconnecting the clutch/sidestand safety switch?

flanga · 01-22-2007, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oregon07klr

Seems simple but have been wondering for a while now, what is the purpose of disconnecting the clutch/sidestand safety switch?

They have a tendency to fail, and it can be a PITA to troubleshoot when you're on a ride.

BTL · 01-22-2007, 07:47 PM

Because these switches fail at inoppertune moments and can leave you stranded and scratching your head as to why the bike won't run...

flanga · 01-22-2007, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wingerr

Just as a variation on the theme, you could also crimp on the disconnects with a male and female on the switch side, and also on the harness side, so you don't have to carry around the extra jumper.

To bypass, all you would then need to do is just connect the male to female on the harness side.

True! I didn't think of that in time, and had clipped the wires too close to the red plug--- not enough slack to put the quick-disconnects together.

broncobowsher · 01-22-2007, 10:38 PM

If you can find a source of these http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servl...=185639&page=1 they are soldered and heat shrinked and a bit more weather resistand then the hardware store version. The solder melts while the shrink is shrinking with a lighter. Neat stuff. Looks like you may have to use bullet connectors.

mule · 01-23-2007, 02:11 AM

bypass? just eliminate it forever, well that's what id did at least to all of the idiot switches on my bike. and still feeling pretty safe.

MarineMP · 01-23-2007, 04:01 AM

Thanks for the tips and the great how to.

Woolly · 01-23-2007, 05:55 AM

Flanga

Good to see great minds think alike - I did the same mod 7 years ago, and still going strong.

Woolly

humvee · 01-23-2007, 12:27 PM

So much easier when you have the pics - thanks for taking the time!. Can anyone demo the clutch bypass?

mylibu · 01-23-2007, 03:02 PM

[quote=humvee;57618]So much easier when you have the pics - thanks for taking the time!. Can anyone demo the clutch bypass?[/QUO

I second that request...great thread by the way!

Mr. Toad · 01-23-2007, 04:09 PM

If you take a piece of silly putty, or pipe sealing putty, and make an impression of the connector on the bike side you can carry that to the local electronics shop, or bike boneyard and get a plug to fit. I found an already made up jumper on an older Honda Spree scooter. I just removed everything having to do with the switch and all and plugged this in. It made enough room under the solenoid cover to mount my power outlet to charge the cell when camping. I still have the leftovers should I care to go back to stock. Don't think that will happen but hey. Great to have the picks for those going the cut and solder route though, and easy to undo. Keep em coming.

01-22-2007, 05:16 PM	#1
flanga Active Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Central New Hampshire (Lakes region) Posts: 302	Sidestand switch bypass Total cost: about 60 cents. And it really was only 5 minutes, with no soldering needed. I'll show the kickstand bypass, but you can do the same thing for the clutch. No need to disconnect anything. Just remove the vertical black switch cover on the left side of the bike. Snip the wires (brown/green+white) leading from the kickstand to the red plug under the seat. Securely crimp on insulated quick-disconnects (available at any hardware or autoparts store). Alternate male/female ends so they can connect together. Like so: Elapsed time: maybe 2 minutes so far. Next, take a hunk of scrap wire (a few inches--- length is mostly irrelevant) and crimp quick-disconnects to each end, male on one end, female on the other, or whatever gender you need to mate with the quick-disconnects you put on the upper wires. Thus: Elapsed time: maybe 3.5 minutes To bypass the kickstand switch, just plug the scrap wire into the upper quick-disconnects, as a jumper between them: I tucked the lower wires coming up from the kickstand out of the way, and filled the quick-disconnects with dielectric grease. Put the cover back on (1 screw) and you're done--- in five minutes or less. If/when you want to reactivate the switch, just remove the jumper and reconnect the upper and lower wires. You can reactivate/deactivate the switch by installing and removing the jumper as often as you need to in about 2 minutes or less. No muss, no fess, no soldering--- and for pennies.

01-22-2007, 07:07 PM	#4
wingerr KLR Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: NY, NY Posts: 1,728	Just as a variation on the theme, you could also crimp on the disconnects with a male and female on the switch side, and also on the harness side, so you don't have to carry around the extra jumper. To bypass, all you would then need to do is just connect the male to female on the harness side. __________________ We're all here because we're not all there ...o&o .8-D El Dooderino, if you're not into the whole brevity thing

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01-22-2007, 06:25 PM	#2
MapBoy Gunga galunga KLR Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: CT via ME and CO Posts: 818	Awesome post Fred! I am electrically incompetant, but even I will be able to follow those instructions. Nice pics too! Well Done!

01-22-2007, 07:28 PM	#5
oregon07klr A Regular Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: 42`14'54" N 121`48'17" W Posts: 149	Seems simple but have been wondering for a while now, what is the purpose of disconnecting the clutch/sidestand safety switch?

01-22-2007, 07:47 PM	#7
BTL RUSHaholic Active Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: here Posts: 507	Because these switches fail at inoppertune moments and can leave you stranded and scratching your head as to why the bike won't run...

01-22-2007, 10:38 PM	#9
broncobowsher Active Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 672	If you can find a source of these http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servl...=185639&page=1 they are soldered and heat shrinked and a bit more weather resistand then the hardware store version. The solder melts while the shrink is shrinking with a lighter. Neat stuff. Looks like you may have to use bullet connectors.

01-23-2007, 02:11 AM	#10
mule A Regular Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: hawaii Posts: 84	bypass? just eliminate it forever, well that's what id did at least to all of the idiot switches on my bike. and still feeling pretty safe.

01-23-2007, 04:01 AM	#11
MarineMP A Regular Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: San Diego Posts: 68	Thanks for the tips and the great how to.

01-23-2007, 05:55 AM	#12
Woolly A Regular Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: 50km north of Brisbane, Australia Posts: 110	Flanga Good to see great minds think alike - I did the same mod 7 years ago, and still going strong. Woolly

01-23-2007, 12:27 PM	#13
humvee Active Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Winterpeg, MB Posts: 432	So much easier when you have the pics - thanks for taking the time!. Can anyone demo the clutch bypass?

01-23-2007, 03:02 PM	#14
mylibu Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 36	[quote=humvee;57618]So much easier when you have the pics - thanks for taking the time!. Can anyone demo the clutch bypass?[/QUO I second that request...great thread by the way!

01-23-2007, 04:09 PM	#15
Mr. Toad Active Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Albany Georgia Posts: 463	If you take a piece of silly putty, or pipe sealing putty, and make an impression of the connector on the bike side you can carry that to the local electronics shop, or bike boneyard and get a plug to fit. I found an already made up jumper on an older Honda Spree scooter. I just removed everything having to do with the switch and all and plugged this in. It made enough room under the solenoid cover to mount my power outlet to charge the cell when camping. I still have the leftovers should I care to go back to stock. Don't think that will happen but hey. Great to have the picks for those going the cut and solder route though, and easy to undo. Keep em coming.