KLX650 vs. KLR650

[linuxman2003]

Ok - I like the klx250 and all, but after owning (and trail riding) a 650 I dont know if I can ever go back to a 250 So whats the differences between the klr and the klx? Are they basically the same engine/frame with just different suspensions? or is the klx sporting a stronger frame (god I hope so) and some real suspension instead of the KLR's street suspension? I also kinda wonder about the seat height.... I had no problems kicking around the KLR even though I'm a fairly small guy, anything taller than the KLR would be a problem (no xr650 for me ) I would guess the klx is much lighter too?

[itsatdm]

It is much easier to list what is the same, because the list is short.
Two version street and dirt. The C model is the street version. Differences: Frame, perimeter vs backbone type. Stronger and lighter. Suspension, longer and bigger. 43mm usd forks. Motor: They share some internal parts but the KLX has a different head for more flow, different case and a gear driven balancer.
The negatives: 3.2 gal fuel tank, little element protection. No aftermarket. Aceribis used to make a 5gal tank but are rare. They just made a special production of 15 red tanks that were presold. The R tank is available in green but won't easily fit the C. Any aftermarket bar fitted windshield will give protection.
I own a 95 C model and love it. Got the 5 gal tank. Maier windscreen, modded the seat for comfort and would take it anywhere. Best I can tell by comparing dyno reports, the C makes about 6 more rw hp than the KLR and responds very well to carb and airbox mods. 11 and 10 inches of suspension travel. As far as height I don't think they are any taller than a KLR but KLR lowering links and raising the fork tubes will lower it. The listed weights for both is a lie. Ready to run the KLX weighs about 375 and a KLR 400+lbs.

[linuxman2003]

cool... so the KLX is basically a KLR with more guts and better suspension without all the common problems associated with a KLR... If I get a KLX its going to be mostly for offroad, with very little street riding involved - maybe the occasional commute to work (50 miles @ 70mph) but thats about it. After riding a klr650 off road I realized that all my assumptions about 650's as trail bikes were BS And I can actually handle a 400+lb 650 off road better than I thought So now I'm looking into the 650cc class off-road oriented bikes, the only one that still kinda scares me is the xr650r, its big, fast, powerful, but its just so darn tall! I havent gotten a chance to sit on one yet, but I would imagine its going to be tricky since I was one footing it on the klr most the time... all the more reason not to stop

[jackariah]

I have a 02 klr650 and just picked up a sweet 95 klx650c. I really did not need another dual sport, but the klx rode some much different than the klr when I test drove it that I had to get it.

On paper they may appear to have slight differnces, however, when you mount them you will immediately notice a difference.

RIDE: The klr is bigger feeling and you sit "down" in it more, so to speak (I have a dished corbin, so maybe that is why) as opposed to the klx where you sit more on top of the front part of the seat... more like a traditional dirt bike. The klr feels heavier and more "cushy" feeling all around... meaning is seems to float a bit more. The klx seems lighter and tighter. The klx I can do a donut in the middle of a gravel road no problem... the klr is a bit top heavy to try such manuever.

POWER: The klr seems to have a flatter torque curve and is very smooth. The klx has what feels to be a bit of a kick to is. The klx definately has more power and more kick. The klr power is easier to feather at slow speeds than the klx. The klx can easily loft the wheel in first with roll on throttle input.

SUSPENSION: The klr is softer and yet when pushed hard on the logging roads seems to do great as the flex in the parts of the bike (shocks, frame, swing arm, etc) makes powering into... thru... and out of corners a pleasure. The klr just seems to be the perfect balance for riding hard on logging roads. The klx has a much beefier suspension. The klr will bottom out on whoop-dee-whoops at mid pace, but the klx never feels stressed and you will be well into the air before at the speeds needed to bottom out the suspension. The klx feels stiffer in the corners on logging roads and interestingly enough the klx thus seems like I have to take it slower than bombing around on the klr. The klr just kind of mushes itself thru the bumping corners while the klx absorbs but transfers the bumps. At this point I am convience I am faster on logging roads with my klr than my klx. Now this could be my imagination or the fact that my klr has kenda 270's (love them... they are predictable all the way out to the ledge of extreme lean angles... always consitant grip) and the klx has Trailwing 41/42 and when pushed hard have a very sharp fall off on the lean angle. I just got some CS 858 and am anxious to put them on the klx and try them out.

COMFORT... klr is the winner

FUN... it is a toss up... both are great and both are different rides and both serve different purposes. If you road ride (logging and street) then the klr is the choice as is comfortable, long range, plenty of hp's to power steer on logging roads and seems faster to me for logging roads. If you are going to do logging roads and single track and hill climbing, etc... then the klx. Keep in mind the klr has many parts and stuff available while the klx is pretty much limited to parts and pieces... you break it... you screwed.

PS: I added a dial jet to my very lean klx... WOW... nice. The klr is fine once you back the screw out a bit. Good luck

jason

[itsatdm]

I think you have made a very good comparitive analysis. (because it mirrors my own observation]. I too have noticed the suspension feedback on rough logging type roads. I got the front working fairly good by going to a lighter 7.5 weight oil, But I have not found a cure for the rear shock, as it feels like it has too much compression and is not adjustable. I had issues with the front end sticking on curves on loose stuff, but dropping the front end a little on the forks took care of that.
As to the power, I think the KLR has more torque at lower RPM, but after I lost the airbox lid, jetted to a 148 main and put an aftermarket can on the KLX it has plenty of power all the way to redline and will slog along pretty well.
To be a good allrounder like the KLR you do need a few inexpensive mods. I added a small windscreen and remodeled the seat and have been happy with both.
Personally, I think the KLX has much more potential once you deal with the comfort issues. I have taken many extended trips with mine and it handles on and off road duties very well.

[Maverick]

Originally Posted by jackariah

At this point I am convience I am faster on logging roads with my klr than my klx. Now this could be my imagination or the fact that my klr has kenda 270's (love them... they are predictable all the way out to the ledge of extreme lean angles... always consitant grip) and the klx has Trailwing 41/42 and when pushed hard have a very sharp fall off on the lean angle. I just got some CS 858 and am anxious to put them on the klx and try them out.

Never used them but I have seen often trailwings called deathwings, they have no place on an offroad bike.

[deepcdiver]

Don't forget the differnce between the KLX650C (street legal) and the KLX650R. The R is much lighter than the C and has 4 more HP. Kick only...

[mudrunner]

I have a uncorked 2001 klx300r and just got my first klr 650, all I can say is my klx 300 is twice the bike my new 2005 klr is, I wish my klx was street legal then I would of never bought this 650 the klx 300 in my mind is stronger faster and better handling then the 650 this 650 seems to not want to lug along under 2000rpms not so with the 300, I think they geared the 650 to high maby ill gear her down a bit and ill like it better

[alonzo]

well I have not ridden the klr, but the klx 650r has enugh power to levitate the wheels with using the throttle.

Mine is set up supermoto style with an 18" front wheel it is nimble quick on the throttle, catches the sport bike riders by suprise and of course the kick only adds a nice theft deterance device. if a theif wants to steal my machine he will have to know how to start a 650 cc thumper or push it a looooooooong ways.

Down side, my klx 650r is contankerous and anti social, needs an expirenced rider definatly would hurt a beginner. it is kick only, and has the tendency to stall at stop lights. Slow turns are a tricky scenerio, clutch play and counterbalancing are a must.

[itsatdm]

Just some miscellaneous ramblings about the KLX650c. Having owned one for 3 years and modified it to fit me, I have some pretty firm ideas on it strengths and weaknesses.
First, if you are looking for a bike for single track or tough technical stuff, look elsewhere. The KLX has old fashioned relaxed geometry and it is heavy, especially this version. How heavy? well I weighed mine this morning with its 5 gal tank almost full and it weighed in at 395#. Sure I have added farkles and it is carrying its tool load, but that is heavy. Almost KLR territory. I have ridden both and can't explain why it feels lighter or handles more like a dirt bike, other than a stiffer frame and better suspenders but it does.
Speaking of suspension, Even though not adjustable, the front end is pretty good. Some don't think so, but make sure you drain the dredges and fill to spec with quality oil. My low mileage bike had half the oil in one fork than the other and I am convinced that contributed to the harsh feel it previously had. You can fine tune with oil weight and volume. The rear is crap, especially the 93 models, the later models handle whoops and heavy landings better but the small stuff still come through. You can go Hi tech, but a cheap cure is a resprung DRZ shock. 1 EBAY used shock with a $65 475# spring did wonders. Some have them gone over by an expert, but there is a lot of adjustbility with the Suzuki shock and I just use it as is and adjust to fit.
The engine. In all the tests I have found, the Big Japanese 3 put out 33-35 hp at the rear wheel. The KLX consistantly is rated at 39+ by the dyno's. Better yet, it responds to the typical upgrades, More air in and out.
Cheap upgrades, are remove the top lid, replace with a frame and some oiled nylon stocking. 148 main, 2 turns out on the pilot. If you can't afford a hightech (expensive) muffler, use a holesaw on that minature outlet hole in the rear of the stock muffler and replace with something larger. The R model Needle will give you some adjustability but I just did the washer trick.
If you got $300 to burn, do the big bore. No the KLR Schnitz kit won't work, but you can go either 1500cc Vulcan piston or a Woosner 102 forged piston. One is heavier, one is lighter, both claim less vibes, go figure.
What both do is provide increased torque over the entire rpm range. Probably not needed in the dirt, but makes for great passing power on the road. I think that the increased torqure is what makes the motor feel smoother.
For creature comforts, I added a Maire bar mounted windscreen and modified the seat myself by adding width with foam and recovering. I especialy like my wind protection over the KLR.
Range, If you missed out on the 5 gallon tank you are probably limited to the stock 3.2 gal. Tuned right, these bikes will give you 50 mpg and if that is not enough go to Baja designs and look at their tail mounted auxilliary tanks. I had, have one and they willl work.
If you like the KLR, these are sleeper bikes. More rigid, lighter, more HP, better suspended and targeted to the same type of offroad experience. Other than the range, it is cheaper to modify the X if you are interested in a road less traveled.

[alonzo]

I have the klx 650r I just tryed out the klr a few days ago. there is indeed a world of difference.

I have to say that has been the most informative post I have gotten about the bike. thank you and I am saveing it with all my other info I have collected for the bike.

[klr_rider1]

I have previously owned a 1993 KLX650C and I now own a 2007 KLR650 (2008 model).

When comparing both bikes, I always come back to the architects mantra - form follows function.

KLX650C

Minuses
- uncommon
- ugly, mine had a purple seat and frame with childish graphics from the factory
- small fuel tank (12 litres)
- thirsty, especially at 110 km/hr against headwinds where the range to having to use the reserve tank would drop to 120 km
- tended to stall at the lights
- heavy, too heavy to loft the front wheel
- thin engine cases, no thicker than an aluminium saucepan
- headlight is weaker than a KLR650 (2008 model)
- shaft on the water pump goes at about 42,000 kms
- long rubber stalks on the indicators
- only 25 cm ground clearance
- smaller fairing than a KLR650 (2008 model)
- a strap across seat

Pluses
- uncommon
- it has a tachometer unlike a DR650
- electric start unlike the KLX650A
- a comfortable seat when the seat is recovered in black vinyl and the strap removed
- can be dropped on a concrete driveway and not sustain any damage except to the indicators and gear lever which can be bent back
- lighter than the KLR650 (2008 model)
- the indicators last longer than the KLR650 (2008 model)
- can handle muddy/grassy slopes, if fitted with knobblies
- tool kit in a lockable compartment
- large carry rack unlike a DR650
- seat height not as high as a XR650
- water cooled

KLR650 (2008 model)

Minuses
- weak indicator stalks (all my indicators were replaced under warranty)
- expensive to replace fairing if dropped
- heavier than a KLX650C or DR650
- thin engine cases, no thicker than an aluminium saucepan
- only 21 cm ground clearance
- the tool kit is easily seen and stolen (mine has)
- the boot to the clutch cable perishes and you have to buy a complete clutch cable to replace it
- ugly two tone seat

Pluses
- common
- it has a tachometer unlike a DR650
- electric start unlike the KLX650A
- a comfortable seat
- looks like a 2008 bike with the graphics and fairing
- a 21 litre tank provides a 300 km plus range
- great dual headlights
- large carry rack unlike a DR650
- steady handling on bitumen roads
- fairing takes the wind off the riders chest
- seat height not as high as a XR650
- water cooled

Going back to the architects mantra - form follows function.

The KLX650 let me explore many of the muddy trails near where I live.

The KLX650 will let cross the continent (a round trip of 10,000 kms).

[hirsty]

To add to the above, I'd been delaying getting my first dualsport bike because of reservations about fuel tank size. Following a tip on this site, I found a green Acerbis 19L tank for the KLX (not KLR) on my very first visit to the German eBay site - www.eBay.de - whilst not listed 'internationally' the seller was quite happy to post overseas.

Around $150 / £100 total, though postage would of course be higher to the US.

[hirsty]

DOH! Whilst trying to fit the new tank to the bike, it turns out to really be for a KLX-R, not a KLX-C.

I think I could make it fit to the bike with some effort, but the long part of the tank doesn't really cover the radiator properly & there's going to be a problem with the bars on full lock. Basically I'm not skilled enough to make this safe with 19L of fuel sloshing around - it'd be a mobile fireball-waiting-to-happen !

[itsatdm]

I wish I had read that earlier, I could have saved you some grief. By the way the R tank is still available in the US from IMS. Their tank can be made to fit, but requires moving the coil, bracket fabrication, a little heat to the shrouds and fitment of an R seat.

[naterover]

i have a question will a klx 250 fuel tank fit a klr 250 i think the klr tank is ugly with the "bat wings" that cover the radiator.

[raredesign]

now to wake up a dead thread

I have a 96 KLX650R, and have the best of both worlds :-)
I took a baja designs kit, and had it custom wired with parts from procycle.us.
Plus a speedo and ignition kit. It is still kick start only, but passed inspection in NY and I am waiting on the plates now. Should have them in a couple weeks :-)
I am running D606's (DOT approved) and have found them to be pretty good on and off road. They have good knobs, but as it is DOT approved, they are rather hard.
I plan on lacing up some other wheels and going with something more enduro oriented, and then switching the wheels for some Michelin 12's (S rear / M front) when I want to hit the dirt.

The bike is fun, but definitely heavier than my prior 02 KX500. Sniffles, I really miss her.
I vow to get another KX500, but the best part was that I had converted that one too and plated it in NY. I swear it was the quickest (not fastest) thing on the street.
When you have that kind of grip and low gearing mods I made, a 5th gear wheelie from a quick twist was not out of the question.

Back to the KLX - parts are a definite issue, so be sure to join up at the KLX group on Yahoo. There seem to be enough part bikes out there, but 96's are hard to come by...especially gas tanks.

I am not a big fan of the cold starts on this bike, but it is no where near as bad as all the dances I had to do to get the KX500 started.

[Blackheart]

OP had a KLX250, then a KLR650? Totally different bikes. I have an 09 KLX250 that is now a 331, and it's perfect for dual-sporting that doesn't require hauling. My KLR650 is a bit unwieldly for tough single-track, or whoops, but, it can haul camping stuff much, much better. The KLR is better on the road. The KLX331 is better off-road. Don't know about the KLX650.

[klr_rider1]

I now have a 2008 model KLR650, but I occasionaly miss my old 1993 KLX650.

I fitted a set of Chinese knobblies and could tackle mud and single track with the KLX650.

Now I look for sealed surfaces as I am on a KLR650 fitted with the Dunlop Trailwing tyres, I removed from the KLX650.

[itsatdm]

Since only 1/2 dozen riders that seem to care, I figured no harm in posting an update on my KLX 650c. Got a F800gs so sharing the mileage.
I have about 7,000 miles on my 680 Big Bore, very much worth the money, wished I put bigger intake valves and a little porting when I had it apart. Seems to run smoother than ever.
Found out why my KLR buddy could stay with me, until he ran out of steam in 2nd gear. He was running a 14 tooth sprocket. Damn cheater.
Regarding comments on mileage and hard starting. It hasn't been my experience at all. It can set for a month and fire right up. Got to keep those valves in spec. Last long trip was 450 miles round trip, 2400 ft over 9600 and back at 70 mph gps for 55mpg. A side trip up to 12,600 ft without a hiccup other than increasing the idle speed.
As for parts, It takes the KLR sprockets, aircleaner, oil filter and the carb is the same except for jetting. They sell skid plates and one for a KLR can be made to fit. I did a top end on it with genuine Kawaski parts when I did my big bore. Mechanical parts are available from the dealer. Even plastic, if you like it green, though KLX 250 parts will work.
No it is not new and shiney, nor keep up with Euros, but it sure is fun to pass a KLR.