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| Maintenance, Mods, & Tech Wrenching and mods - KLR650 Maintenance discussion only! |
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#1 |
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Occasional Poster
Super Cool Since: Sep 2008
Locale: Missouri - Columbia
Postings: 4
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I have an 08 KLR. For the first 400 miles it was great. Just before I took it for the first service, I noticed a marked decrease in power. The dealer had a tech ride it and they agreed that something was wrong. They wanted to check valve clearance, so I left it with them over night. All in all, the valves were fine, but the low compression persisted. They finally figured to check the KACR and decided it was too long, resulting in premature release and belated retraction. However, why this occur only after 500 miles doesn't make sense. Nonetheless, compression was within acceptable parameters after shaving it down, and I took the bike home, though not completely contented with the bike's power relative to when it was new.
Now, at 1000 miles, it is losing power again. In particular, first, but second gear as well. In third and above it feels better, but still about 20% weaker than it had been. I would expect that if anything else was suspect at the time of dismantling the engine, the tech would have noticed (i.e., rings, gaskets and such), however in all honesty, I am not sure they were invested in my best interest, but getting the bike out of the shop. So, has anyone else experienced something similar? Or are there any suggestions on what is wrong, or how to get the dealer to fix the problem while maintaining positive relations? I appreciate whatever ideas you may have. |
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#2 |
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A Regular
Super Cool Since: Aug 2008
Locale: Kentucky
Postings: 23
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I heard from a dealer, there was a service bulletin on the compression release mechanism for some early 08's. He used the word "shaving" when describing the fix. That and rings were the only two items he would admit to being "issues" with the 08 KLR.
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#3 |
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Active Member
Super Cool Since: May 2007
Postings: 717
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I'd like to see the bulletin, I suggested grinding on the early models way back when on this site for better starting. You basically take the leading edge off so the valve is bumped a few degrees later, and the trailing edge so it's not held open for as long.
jko, as an experiment you could wire the mechanism to defeat it. I've been running with it removed for many years with no ills. Hopefully you don't have a burnt valve/seat.
__________________
"Better is often the enemy of Good Enough" |
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#4 |
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Occasional Poster
Super Cool Since: Sep 2008
Locale: Missouri - Columbia
Postings: 4
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what do you mean by wire the mechanism?
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#5 |
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Active Member
Super Cool Since: May 2007
Postings: 717
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Used safety wire to defeat it's function trying to trace down a noisy top end.
__________________
"Better is often the enemy of Good Enough" |
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