KLR 650 forks on a KLR 250

[fixer]

Okay, this all started with finding an '01 KLR 250 on craigslist for cheap... the bike had a title and ran, but one of the DPOs had tried to turn it into a MX bike... removing the fairing, instruments, headlight, blinkers, radiator shrouds, side panels, airbox and generally thrashing the poor beast.

This abuse included tweaking the forks... they were probably fixable, but since i had a complete pair of fork legs from having the fork lowers hard anodized and the tubes modified for Gold Valves, it seemed like a simple swap. Turned out it was a little more involved than i'd hoped, but still not that bad.

While most are probably familar with the complaints about the 650's soft suspension and brakes, the cures for these problems are relatively well known. i've read some similar complaints, mostly about the front brake on the 250, but there's no option available to improve them. you can get a stainless brakeline, and play with different pads, but that's about it. this swap will give me the larger rotor and slightly bigger caliper from the 650, the stiffer forks from the 650, parts are easier to get, other upgrade options are available, progressive springs, gold valves, fork braces and 320rotors. for now, i'll start off with the stock 650 springs because the forks are now on a lighter bike... so we'll see how they work before i add other upgrades...the bike needs some TLC in other areas too, so i'm gonna worry about getting it running, complete and registered first.

So, I started hunting for the other parts in the classifieds here, and on ebay. Got the fairing and bracket, new ignition switch, new instruments, new 650 caliper, and 650 rotor and Daystar fork boots, plus a new set of Pro Taper ATV high bars. My 650 will get a new stainless brakeline and the old stainless line will get moved to the 250.

The first problem that I encountered was that the fork stanchion tubes on the 250 are a few milimeters smaller then they are on the 650... no big surprise there, but i'd never seen the diameter of the 250 tubes mentioned anywere that i could recall.

So, i had to get a set of 650 triples.

When I tried to swap the triples, the problem turned out to be that the steering stem on the 250 is about 1cm shorter than the steering stem on the 650. Can't just add a stack of washers to the top, because the bearings would never get close enough to be properly adjusted... so i had to find access to a hydraulic press.

Unfortunately, when i got access to the first press, the shop wasn't set up well and i was trying to support the triple clamp with some angle iron, AND i thought the steering stem would press from the bottom up. So the first attempt didn't get anywhere. After a little checking, Porsche Scum told me that the steering stem had to press from the top down.

I got another motorhead to let me come over and use his press, he had proper support plates so that solved one problem. We removed the plastic plug from the top of the stem so it wouldn't compress unevenly, applied some heat to the lower triple clamp with a propane torch and were rewarded with a small "clunk" as the stem broke free and then pressed it the rest of the way out.We repeated the procedure on the second steering stem and lower combo, then pressed the 250/600 steering stem back into the 650 lower triple and that stage of the job was done.

The only problem was that the torch toasted the grease seal on one of the assemblies. The seal and bearing on the other part had come off earlier. So.... if your bearings and seals are good, I'd suggest getting them removed BEFORE you press out the stem.

I returned home, and rolled the 250 out of the side yard after a little manuvering... it's not at the end of the line.

Jacked the 250 up, pulled the front end off AGAIN, and the new hybrid triples bolted up find. The only slight problem at this point was that the bottom adjuster nut for the bearings (the one that's under the upper clamp) seemed to be a different thread size between the different steering stems. Dunno, but i just used the one that fit instead of trying to force things. It has one notch that's chewed up, but i'll clean it up with a dremel at some point (should have done that while I had everything apart).... the three other notches are fine, so it's not a huge problem.

When installing the new 650 legs, the top clamp needed to have the clamps spread slightly... couldn't just slip the legs into the clamp without tapping a screwdriver in there.

The 650 legs are slightly longer than the 250 legs, I think it's about an inch of difference... so you can see I have the fork legs sticking up past the top triple clamp... kinda like the "shipping position" some stealerships deliver the 650 in. They won't hit the bars, and this gives you some adjustment if you mount a 19" wheel in the front, or want to push the front up and change the head angle and trail.

The lower triple will need to be drilled and tapped to mount the headlight and fairing, but that won't take much. These forks look somewhat stock, and you'd have to know the difference to notice it, but you can see the difference between the two rotors in one pic. I haven't measured it, but the 650 rotor seems to be about 20mm larger diameter than the 250 rotor.

I've NEVER seen anyone else do this before, but 650 forks are easily available on ebay, or in the classifieds.

I cut new PVC spacers for the forks, because I couldn't find the steel factory spacers... I just topped out the forks and cut a spacer that was even with the top of the stanchion tubes... this usually seems to be a good starting point.

OK, enough rambling from me. Feel free to ask any questions, and I'll post more pix up as the project progresses.

[MSGT-R]

Wow! another farkling job in my future!!

The larger fork tubes are not only stouter, but that opens further possibilities for different brake options (like Galfer stuff). I always eye-balled the possibility of what you did, but never had the parts available to look them over.

Go with the 650 springs and ride it for now.

Outstanding job!

[mcfear]

yeh this would be pretty cool. especially as im a fairly heavy guy, well for the 250 suspension anyway. how much does it take to fit the 650 rearshock to the 250?

[fixer]

Originally Posted by mcfear

how much does it take to fit the 650 rearshock to the 250?

haven't tried that yet, but i've read that it can be done.

if i understand everything correctly, the hole on the swingarm for the lower bolt needs to be drilled out to let you use the 650 bolt.

it's tight, but it fits.

also lets you use aftermarket shocks for the 650.

eventually, i need to pullt he swingarm off to grease it up... i have the orginal shock of my 650 which has no urethane bumper, but i can hold it up and see what would need to be done and take pix.

[mcfear]

ok cool. would be very much appreciated. i to have heard that it only takes a little bit of drilling, but not where or how much etc. so if you can do it, it would be awesome, if not. i will have a go.

[Buster Grumpy]

How does that air intake work for you? Good/Bad/Indifferent?

[MSGT-R]

Something tells me that was the previous owner.
90 degree bends and small air filters are not good for efficiency.

[fixer]

yeah.. that's a crankcase breather and some plumbing bits... it's coming off probably this weekend.

there's nothing to keep anything the back tire throws up off the filter, other than it's slightly offset.

NOT reccomended, just had to document it somewhere.

[Scott_Rides_Again]

Great job, fixer. Thanks for the writeup. I think you got Terri excited!

[MSGT-R]

Yeah, but my farkling frequency is getting me in trouble with my hubby again. I've gotta slow down. I've already got a Buchanan 18" kit to pay Mike for @ tech day, then a Kenda to buy for it. There's a pair of forks for sale on e-bay from Lost Wages, but I'm sure there will be a shout-fest if I bid on them.

Besides, my KLR already has lowering links, and the length of the 650 fork tubes may cause problems even with a motard wheel.

[fixer]

Originally Posted by MSGT-R

There's a pair of forks for sale on e-bay from Lost Wages, but I'm sure there will be a shout-fest if I bid on them.

if those are the ones with the $89 BIN price, they seem to be from an '85 KLR 600, which is a tube size between the 250 and 650, but i'm not sure what the rotor size was on the 600... i think it was somewhere between the 650 and 250.

but the fork seals would probably need to be replaced just due to age.

AFAIK, the head tube on the 600 is the same height as the 250, so they would (or should) be a direct swap there and wouldn't require any pressing and swapping of parts... but i don't know if there's be much gain in braking performance from the 600 brakes.

but i don't think that either the custom fork brace you have now, or the standard 650 fork brace would work on the 600 forks.

in short, i think the 600 is the orphan of the KLR family and i don't think that's the right direction to go with a swap.

as far as the fork length is concerned, you could have the tubes sticking WAY up, in the shipping position... there have been more than a few 650 riders who get sent out the door with their forks like that.

or, you could find a suspension shop to shorten the 650 tubes and re-thread them. then they wouldn't stick up. i now have a spare set of 250 triples, so i could sent those to you and you could use that stem to swap to 650 triples so you wouldn't have to tear your bike apart for longer than it takes to actually swap the forks.

cant offer any help with the shouting hubby problem, but you could always tell him that it could be worse, you could be buying girlie shoes at the mall that will be out of style next year.

anyway....i don't think the 600 forks are the ones you want.

how much do you have the back lowered now?

[MSGT-R]

Originally Posted by fixer

As far as the fork length is concerned, you could have the tubes sticking WAY up, in the shipping position... there have been more than a few 650 riders who get sent out the door with their forks like that.

That's where the stock ones are now with the 2" Kouba links.

[fixer]

looks like you have the forks about .75" or so above the clamps?

IIRC, the 650 legs are about 1" longer overall than the 250 legs, so you'd end up with them about 1.75" above the clamps, which is still below the "shipping position" which, IIRC, is about 3" up.

as long as the bars are not at a steeper angle than the forks/head angle, you should be fine.

and having the tube actually shortened it still an option.

i'll get a closeup pic of the bars and top triple clamp later.

[MSGT-R]

Originally Posted by fixer

looks like you have the forks about .75" or so above the clamps?

You've got good eye balls!

[mcfear]

it says triple clamps. but where is the third one, theres only 2 in that pic that are clamping onto the forks. or 2 that i can see.


(if im asking lots of questions, its cause im only 17 and im trying to learn all i can about this bike as i can)

[fixer]

Originally Posted by mcfear

it says triple clamps. but where is the third one, theres only 2 in that pic that are clamping onto the forks. or 2 that i can see.


(if im asking lots of questions, its cause im only 17 and im trying to learn all i can about this bike as i can)

questions are fine... makes it easier to learn shi... stuff.

they are called "triple clamps", but there are only two clamps... but each one "clamps" the two fork tube, and the steering stem, this the "triple" part.

bicycle forks are different, and you just have the fork legs and the steerer, and on a bicycle, what's where the lower triple on a bicycle is is called the "crown".

moto style forks are very rare on bicycles, but the last time i saw one was on a trials bike... before you were born. i can't even find a decent pic of that bike online.

[mcfear]

ok cool. i get the triple bit now. is it possible in the US to buy the spring out of the timing chain tentioner. cause here in aus you have to buy the entire thing.

[ST391GQ]

Originally Posted by mcfear

ok cool. i get the triple bit now. is it possible in the US to buy the spring out of the timing chain tentioner. cause here in aus you have to buy the entire thing.

That is just the biggest bloody rip-off too!!!!
I just replaced mine at about $160 coz it was sticking and not adjusting properly.
I seems that they can wear just a little weirdly...but the main problem was the spring had kinked quite badly in the middle ....and a couple of the coils had worn a fair bit...so I was pretty suss. about it actually breaking. So I replaced it..n all is good now. I also renewed the camchain when I did the mods to the balancer sprockets/doohickey as well...so all is good down there now.


Cheers Keith

[MSGT-R]

You must buy the tensioner as an assembly.

Meanwhile, back to Fixer's forks..

[mcfear]

yep, sorry terri.