Pelican 1520 trunk install with LED Brake Light and 12V

[K7MDL]

Earlier I installed detachable top loading Pelican 1430s on SW-Motech racks (see http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=53801). Here I document my trunk case solution.

I wanted the Pelican 1520 case to be:

1. Easily removable to give access to the handles, or run with a Cortech Sport Tail bag
2. Raised up 3/4" above the luggage rack to give access to teh luggage rack handles for bungee hooks and road side bike lifting. For serious lifting the box can be quick slid off.
3. The detaching solution must be lockable
4. A 5" flashing aux tail light will be installed for better visibility.
5. Switched 12V battery power in the trunk case for my ham radio adventures and cell phone charging.
6. No new holes in the luggage rack - use existing bolts.
7. Slidng the case off allows access to the stock toolkit.

When I ordered 3" x 3/4" UHMV black plastic bar stock for my side case bracket project, I got it long enough for extra material to make two 12" sliding rails for the trunk. (so a 5ft x 3" x 3/4" piece).

I cut two 12" lenghts, and rip them in half with a 45 degree cut on the table saw. 2 pieces get bolted to the luggage rack using the existing bolts. The other two bolt to the case bottom.

I elected to use Tee-nuts (some call them blind nuts) for the 6 case bottom 1/4-20 x 1" SS panhead bolts. 4 hold the brackets, 2 screw into Tee-nuts in the bike side brackes to secure the sliding assembly so it does not rattle or move. Rubber washers and fender washers were used under the bolt heads for weather sealing.

The 5" aux tail light LED sticks onto the back of the case and fits perfectly under the case handle. I wanted to leave the handle on for carrying when I remove it, such as hotel/campground stops or single track dirt trips. Since the case is removable, the 3 aux tail light wire connection needed to be quick disconnect and waterproof.

A couple time per year I will be putting into the case an AGM battery, DC-DC charger, and ham radio equipment for mountain top VHF radio contesting. I installed a 40amp automotive relay under the seat for switched 12V from the battery (fused) and used a standard flat 4 prong SAE vehicle-side trailer connector positioned under the left side luggage rack. I tapped into the tail and brake light wires also.

Pin assignments for trailer connector:

1. Gnd (bare pin)
2. Switched 12V (fused)
3. Tail light
4. Brake light.

A standard 2 prong SAE connector will plug into the 4 prong and I can therefore get switched 12V from this 4 prong connector. I happen to have a weather capped 2 prong unswitched fused connector in the same location (battery tender wire) for running a compressor and battery charging. I used 5/16" ID vacuum hose as a cable sheath over the trailer wiring (4 16AWG wires) to make them look nice, ruggedize, and waterproof the connector entrance.

The last problem was to bring the power/tail/brake wires into the case in a waterproof, quick disconnect, rugged, and aesthetic manner. One solution is to take a trailer-side flat 4 prong connector harness and pass it through a hole in the case and RTV it. I wanted something better. After much searching I found one. High current, waterproof, low cost (relatively), quick disconnect, rugged, has dust caps, and has right angle and bulhead options. Amphenol-Tuchel Electronics division makes the Eco-Mate series and passes 13amps per pin and the 4 pin version has screw termnals and easily takes 12AWG wire. Available from Digi-Key and others.

Here are the pictures. I did not take one of the bike side bracket Tee-nuts for the 2 case lockdown screws. They are the middle screws in the case pictures. I used a router bit to counter sink the Tee-Nuts and shoulder bushings from my junk box (old motorcycle fairing bushings). Table saw, drill press, hand drill and sand paper are all that was needed to make this.

- Mike

[K7MDL]

Here are some pictures I took in the garage of the LED tail light. It was about $24 as I recall. It sticks on, and comes in flashing or non-flashing versions. It fits right in between the handle and sticks on like it was made for this case.

Pics - Lights off, tail light on, brake light on. Brake - it flashes about 1 second 4 times and comes on solid the 5th time. It is very bright in a reasonably decent zone behind the bike.

- Mike

[Mr.Bob]

Looks great Mike. It is strange how similar your bike looks to mine though . Do you have any plans to add internal lid locks to your boxes?

[dumbyhotshot]

That is outstanding. Way more elegant that my quick detach mounting solution which required drilling the crap out of the stock rack.

[K7MDL]

Originally Posted by Mr.Bob

Looks great Mike. It is strange how similar your bike looks to mine though . Do you have any plans to add internal lid locks to your boxes?

Cam locks: Not at this time. I have a quad set of matching padlocks with black plastic covers that just fit the stock lock tabs on the boxes. Was something like $10 and no effort, and they actually look decent.

I might put one on the trunkfirst. There is still room under the handle and leave the LED light intact. I would likely have to embed the wire however.

Here is where mine will start to look different: I am now designing the removable internal mounting plate for the battery, charger, and radios. The hardest part is some sort of removable, strong, extendable mounting post with a top located ball mount level system so I can stack small antennas and point them level (since the bike leans when parked) with the horizon and spin them to any azimuth. Something like a camera tripod setup, but more compact would be nice. A CB ball mount with a lever added on the center bolt is a start. Then have to design folding microwave horn or dish antennas.

When not doing radio stuff, maybe the post can hold a video camera to record some adventure riding - except it would be looking rearward at everyone eating my dust :-).

- Mike

[K7MDL]

Originally Posted by dumbyhotshot

That is outstanding. Way more elegant that my quick detach mounting solution which required drilling the crap out of the stock rack.

Thanks. It is not perfect, but does work and no holes were required. That is the advantage of waiting a few months and looking at how everyone else solved the problem before me. Thanks for going first!

- Mike

[LiteHeaded]

I was looking for a "third brake light" in LED. I just used damn near a whole roll of DOT reflective tape. I love those side cases. I moved the whole electronic package of fuses and switches into the case for easier access and expandability.

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