Best Looking Ways to Armour up a KLR

[Bxtwilight]

2009 KLR and I want to put the best most protective armour on it with visual appeal. I'm looking at the Motech crash/engine bars, Motech skid plate/black, Barkbuster full hand guards and although I'm interested in rear bars, I have not seen anything that looks good. I'm not interested in saddle bags at the moment.

What are the best products to protect a KLR that will go down and look good at the same time?

[fjteal]

I went with SW Motech crashbars, JNS Engineering skid plate works well with the crashbars and is very sturdy, and some KLR racks from ebay that also protect the rear some. I haven't taken any pics lately but also upgraded the front shocks with Ricor Intiminators and for the rear got the MOAB shock and some D606 tires. I would definitely do the Thermo-bob really helps even the 2009s. Also, replace the footpegs and footpeg bolts if going off road. Ride it for awhile and do a lot of research from the forum, you will find that many have been down the same path you are on. Ride hard but ride safe.

[Bxtwilight]

Originally Posted by fjteal

I went with SW Motech crashbars, JNS Engineering skid plate works well with the crashbars and is very sturdy, and some KLR racks from ebay that also protect the rear some. I haven't taken any pics lately but also upgraded the front shocks with Ricor Intiminators and for the rear got the MOAB shock and some D606 tires. I would definitely do the Thermo-bob really helps even the 2009s. Also, replace the footpegs and footpeg bolts if going off road. Ride it for awhile and do a lot of research from the forum, you will find that many have been down the same path you are on. Ride hard but ride safe.

Thanks your bike looks way hot in all black and your rear racks look very nice. What brand are they?

[Birdy]

I was going to say 1" Armorlite works well and will stop most round up to 23mm BUT it's a bit heavy.

I did pretty much the same as fjteal did with the bars. BUT use a plate from Utah motorsports and the SW rear rack with Pelican boxes (world largest frame pucks )

I would like to point out that some of the protestion you need to add you don't see, Doohickey and T-Bob upgrades are both needed more so that Barkbuster at first I think. After all a pretty bike in the shop is useless to anyone (other than the shop making money off the deal!)

Here's my '09 Lil' Nyet

[PatagonianGaucho]

mines armored in between the tank wing and tight against the pump. It give a narrow profile.

[Good Times]

I have the Happy Trails skid plate, a low profile magnetic drain plug, a set of home-made luggage racks with Peli 1550 cases (the ones you can drive a car over.) A set of used (needing some welding) SW Motech nerf bars will be here next week and will be on the bike next Saturday. My luggage racks were one off, with aluminum plates I found in a local metal scrap yard.

When I get the SW Motech bars installed, I'll evaluate their coverage and add on as needed to protect engine components.

I'm not much of an off roader, but on the Gen 2 bikes, 08 & later, the radiator is way too vulnerable. I think I'm going to try to work out an easy, small nerf bar for the radiator (perhaps a more resilliant mount that covers the outer parts of the radiator.

I'm on my second set of plastic, at least the cowls and shrouds not because my original green and silver ones got damage (I sold the off) but because I wanted a different color combo--all black. With patience and due diligence, replacement plastic CAN be found for reasonable cost.

[fjteal]

Originally Posted by Bxtwilight

Thanks your bike looks way hot in all black and your rear racks look very nice. What brand are they?

Got them off ebay if you look up KLR rack you should find them, they are well made and very durable. heres a link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3D10%26ps%3D63

[Bxtwilight]

Originally Posted by fjteal

I went with SW Motech crashbars, JNS Engineering skid plate works well with the crashbars and is very sturdy, and some KLR racks from ebay that also protect the rear some. I haven't taken any pics lately but also upgraded the front shocks with Ricor Intiminators and for the rear got the MOAB shock and some D606 tires. I would definitely do the Thermo-bob really helps even the 2009s. Also, replace the footpegs and footpeg bolts if going off road. Ride it for awhile and do a lot of research from the forum, you will find that many have been down the same path you are on. Ride hard but ride safe.

I must admit the JNS skid plate looks great but for $150 it should. It seems like they specialize in them but what makes them so much better than skid plates half their cost?

[Bxtwilight]

Originally Posted by Birdy

I was going to say 1" Armorlite works well and will stop most round up to 23mm BUT it's a bit heavy.

I did pretty much the same as fjteal did with the bars. BUT use a plate from Utah motorsports and the SW rear rack with Pelican boxes (world largest frame pucks )

I would like to point out that some of the protestion you need to add you don't see, Doohickey and T-Bob upgrades are both needed more so that Barkbuster at first I think. After all a pretty bike in the shop is useless to anyone (other than the shop making money off the deal!)

Here's my '09 Lil' Nyet

I always wondered if a passenger could rige comfortably with saddle cases. Any experience with that? Very nice set-up BTW.

[Bxtwilight]

Originally Posted by Pigasus

I have the Happy Trails skid plate, a low profile magnetic drain plug, a set of home-made luggage racks with Peli 1550 cases (the ones you can drive a car over.) A set of used (needing some welding) SW Motech nerf bars will be here next week and will be on the bike next Saturday. My luggage racks were one off, with aluminum plates I found in a local metal scrap yard.

When I get the SW Motech bars installed, I'll evaluate their coverage and add on as needed to protect engine components.

I'm not much of an off roader, but on the Gen 2 bikes, 08 & later, the radiator is way too vulnerable. I think I'm going to try to work out an easy, small nerf bar for the radiator (perhaps a more resilliant mount that covers the outer parts of the radiator.

I'm on my second set of plastic, at least the cowls and shrouds not because my original green and silver ones got damage (I sold the off) but because I wanted a different color combo--all black. With patience and due diligence, replacement plastic CAN be found for reasonable cost.

Where did you get the plastic?

[Birdy]

I don't think the saddle bags would be much of a problem as I drilled holes to bolt them to the brackets they could always be mounted a little lower and/or further back as needed. There's clearance between the saddle and the bags anyway so it's not like she'd be sitting on them anyway. NOW the top box would be a pain the the back as there's a "stiffening Rib" right in the middle and it'd dig right in the back of the passenger. You'd have to mount it to the rear more than I have and make a little back rest to cushion it I'd think.

You can see there's room there that the first photo didn't show. The topbox on the bike in this photo is a Hepco & Becker that I stole from my Buell to use when I first got the KLR BUT I wanted it back for the Buell and got another Pelican for the KLR

[Birdy]

You got me thinking about it so I went out to the garage and climbed on the rear of the bike. NO problem at all not even close to the saddlebags BUT like I said the top box os a pain in the lower back. I'd move it back 2" to 6" and fab up a backrest if you plan to take a rider along.

Remember a KLR is NOT a big touring bike though and if you load it up with gearto the max and you (I am lightweight around here at 200 lps!) and then toss a passenger on the rear you'll be over loaded and the bike will NOT thank you at all.

[Royalwapiti]

Originally Posted by fjteal

Got them off ebay if you look up KLR rack you should find them, they are well made and very durable. heres a link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3D10%26ps%3D63

FJTEAL

Could you do me a favor and measure from the outside of the rear rack pipe to the tail pipe. I'm looking at some Ortlieb dry saddle bags and they are alittle more sensitive to the heat from the exhaust than the pelicans or other hard cases.

I forget right now how much distance they recommend to keep the dry bags away from the exhaust but it is on their literature somewhere.

Thanks

[hoffy]

Birdy is right about the Pelicans being big frame pucks, did a low slide on one a couple of years ago caused by a cage and slid on bricks on the handle bar guard and the pleican, though a lot depends on how it is mounted( I had Caribopu Cases on my wee-strom that low slideded).The cases saved me from the bike smashing me . The Barkbusers are tough, I hit a dog laborday weekend, broke my arm bad, and the barkbusters just had a little deep rash, clutch lever ok.Handle bar bent pretty bad. Was going 25-30 when dog came from nowhere. The doohickey and Thermo bob should be high on the priority list.

[fjteal]

Royalwapiti from the rear plastic it's about 3/4" off on the top to about 1" to 1 1/4" as you get to the center and bottom. I have Wolfman Enduro bags and have never had a problem with them getting hot.

[Bxtwilight]

Originally Posted by hoffy

Birdy is right about the Pelicans being big frame pucks, did a low slide on one a couple of years ago caused by a cage and slid on bricks on the handle bar guard and the pleican, though a lot depends on how it is mounted( I had Caribopu Cases on my wee-strom that low slideded).The cases saved me from the bike smashing me . The Barkbusers are tough, I hit a dog laborday weekend, broke my arm bad, and the barkbusters just had a little deep rash, clutch lever ok.Handle bar bent pretty bad. Was going 25-30 when dog came from nowhere. The doohickey and Thermo bob should be high on the priority list.

Can you tell me more about the thermo bob? I notice the bike runs hot but still within the "white". Saw that today and the weather was 60F. What are the benefits of the T-bob and what are the disadvantages of not having one put in?

Also, I read somewhere the 2009's have a better chain tensioner (I think that is what the doohickey replaces?). Do I really need the Doo? Again please let me know the advantages/disadvantages of it.

Thanks

[Bxtwilight]

Originally Posted by hoffy

Birdy is right about the Pelicans being big frame pucks, did a low slide on one a couple of years ago caused by a cage and slid on bricks on the handle bar guard and the pleican, though a lot depends on how it is mounted( I had Caribopu Cases on my wee-strom that low slideded).The cases saved me from the bike smashing me . The Barkbusers are tough, I hit a dog laborday weekend, broke my arm bad, and the barkbusters just had a little deep rash, clutch lever ok.Handle bar bent pretty bad. Was going 25-30 when dog came from nowhere. The doohickey and Thermo bob should be high on the priority list.

Oh one last questionn does installing the T-bob and dookickey violate the Kawi warranty? If I do it I would have both installed by a kawi dealer - don't know if that make a difference regarding my warranty question above.

[Burrito Bandito]

http://www.happy-trail.com/Products/...TP_4-1-3B.aspx


http://www.happy-trail.com/KLR650%2087-07.aspx

[UTAH BUZZARD]

Originally Posted by Bxtwilight

Oh one last questionn does installing the T-bob and dookickey violate the Kawi warranty? If I do it I would have both installed by a kawi dealer - don't know if that make a difference regarding my warranty question above.

Go to a tech day. Never go back to the stealer.

[Birdy]

Dsump and I did mine at about a 1000 mile on my '09 and the spring was clapped out already. While the factory 'Doo might be stronger now than for the older bikes Mikes 'Doo is a LOT beefier. I did Mike's spring as well. This is NOT a costly up grade at all. less than $100.00 even if you have to buy the special tools and gaskets (I bought the gasket Dan had the tools). Cheap insurance I think.