What spares ?

[2thumbs]

I bought a KLR about 4 months ago for a planned trip from North Queensland, Australia accross to Darwin (2800 kms) and then to Dilli, Timor Leste by ship. Then west into Indonesia island hopping to Bali, maybe all the way through to Malaysia; maybe returning the same way.
I leave mid March. The planning is done and the bike is ready. (almost !)
I have done the doohickey and torsion spring and am waiting for PD nerfs to arrive.
I've got expedition style soft panniers etc.
I will fit new tyres and possibly sprockets & chain in Darwin.
My question to all you experienced KLR riders is : What spares should I carry ?
I dont mean the basic stuff like tubes, patches plugs, fuses etc., but the KLR specific things that might/usually/do fail !
Sorry for the long first post. Hopefully the answer is along the lines - hell man you dont need nothin, they never break !!
Cheers Peter

[Gruf Rude]

Nothing has broken on my KLR in 22,000 miles; heck, I'm still running the original spark plug, chain and rear sprocket. I did carry spare clutch and brake levers to Alaska and lots of guys have run a spare clutch cable next to the functioning one in case the original breaks. A few feet of fuel/vacuum line sometimes comes in handy, as does a little home-made motorcycle specific jumper cable (I made mine with big alligator clips and some stereo 'Monster Cable' - fits in a quart ziplock).

I removed the clutch and side-stand safety switches as they are prone to failure; I grew up on older bikes that did not have these devices so the habit of pulling in the clutch and raising the sidestand are fairly well-ingrained . . .

[jeffsaline]

I've started carrying the coolant pump seals that fit in the impeller. They are small, not too expensive, hard to find in stock at a dealer and critical if they go bad. Along with that I include a new coolant pump cover gasket.

I also carry a petcock block off plate set up incase the diaphragm goes bad in the petcock. (disclosure: I've been making and selling them since last spring)

I also use a chain with a master link and carry a couple of spare links and clips just in case.

Based on where you're planning on going I'd probably take a spare clutch cable too. Hard to source in a dealership and important to the operation of the bike.

Best and safe travels,

Jeff

[I say U he DEAD!]

Originally Posted by jeffsaline

I've started carrying the coolant pump seals that fit in the impeller. They are small, not too expensive, hard to find in stock at a dealer and critical if they go bad. Along with that I include a new coolant pump cover gasket.

I also carry a petcock block off plate set up incase the diaphragm goes bad in the petcock. (disclosure: I've been making and selling them since last spring)

I also use a chain with a master link and carry a couple of spare links and clips just in case.

Based on where you're planning on going I'd probably take a spare clutch cable too. Hard to source in a dealership and important to the operation of the bike.

Best and safe travels,

Jeff

Jeff just about nailed it

A neat trick you can do with the extra clutch cable is zip tie it right along side the one you have on now, that way if it fails some place you'd rather not work on the bike for too long (which seems to be the case ,most of the time ) all you have to do is switch over the end connections and you're on your way

not my idea but i thought is was a good one

[klrAlaska]

Originally Posted by I say U he DEAD!

...A neat trick you can do with the extra clutch cable is zip tie it right along side the one you have on now...

...and be sure to cover both ends for protection from dirt, rain,etc. (electrical shrink wrap works well) so if/when you need your spare cable, it is in good operating condition.

[Mark R.]

Originally Posted by 2thumbs

I bought a KLR about 4 months ago for a planned trip from North Queensland, Australia accross to Darwin (2800 kms) and then to Dilli, Timor Leste by ship. Then west into Indonesia island hopping to Bali, maybe all the way through to Malaysia; maybe returning the same way.
I leave mid March. The planning is done and the bike is ready. (almost !)
I have done the doohickey and torsion spring and am waiting for PD nerfs to arrive.
I've got expedition style soft panniers etc.
I will fit new tyres and possibly sprockets & chain in Darwin.
My question to all you experienced KLR riders is : What spares should I carry ?
I dont mean the basic stuff like tubes, patches plugs, fuses etc., but the KLR specific things that might/usually/do fail !
Sorry for the long first post. Hopefully the answer is along the lines - hell man you dont need nothin, they never break !!
Cheers Peter

+1 on what Jeff said. The water pump seals, along with the clutch gasket, water pump gasket, and the little crush washers would be good to have, and take up very little space. Look at the microfiche at the dealership to be sure you get all the pieces you need to fix it.

I read on ADV about a couple of guys on KTM 950's going around the world, and they also carried wheel bearings and seals, which surely do not take up much space. I would take fork seals also.

I would also grease the entire rear suspension system very thoroughly, as well as the wheel bearings and steering head bearings, as well as check the valve clearances, and get them real loose. I would also change the fork oil.

Sounds like a great trip. I wish I could do it.

[xracer]

If your going to travel that far I'd also include a set of brake pads and fluid along with some of Eagle Mikes master cylinder screws. A spare air filter is also a good idea.

[jeffsaline]

Originally Posted by xracer

If your going to travel that far I'd also include a set of brake pads and fluid along with some of Eagle Mikes master cylinder screws. A spare air filter is also a good idea.

I find the brake pads comment interesting.

I've got over 30,000 smiles on my 03 KLR650 with much off pavement riding locally in the Black Hills, the Great Divide Ride in 2004, a southwest trip in 2005, De Tour (about 3,500 smiles maybe 50% off pavement) in 2006, the Hole in the Wall (less than 1,000 smiles about 50% off pavement) in 2007 and lots more local riding on and off pavement. Last August I did part of a trip on the Oregon Trail. That was about 2,000 miles and mostly paved.

I'm still on my stock pads front and rear. Probably have another 6,000-8,000 smiles of life left in them.

I stay amazed at how folks go through brake pads so quickly. I recall some folks not getting 5,000 miles on front pads.

I usually bring some No Toil air filter maintenance products along but have never needed a new filter while on a trip.

Best,

Jeff

[Gruf Rude]

Yeah, Jeff, but I've followed you around in some of those places and on a trip or two and can share with the others that your brakes last a long time because you simply never use them . . .

[Beezerboy]

you didn't say how many Ks the bike has... new? brake pads, chain & sprockets should go for maybe 12-15000K.... cables should go twice that no problem. obviously chain wear depends a lot on frequent maintenance. there are people that claim to get 30000K or more (I don't see how). I got 15 out of my original sprockets & chains and they had rough service, aftermarkets got less. do some research on what riders in Oz are getting and figure a fat margin. other than that.... tires... same story. are you riding slab, busted bit or sand? a set of Tourances might make the whole trip. wire ahead for a spare rear someplace if you're on TKCs... you get the idea.

I put my screws in with RTV (Silastic) because it fills gaps and dampens vibration. They never come out unless you want them to & seems to be able to withstand a couple install/remove cycles and still work without putting on fresh. Get some good bark busters to protect the levers. I would tidy everything up, set the valves & go.

EDIT: to check the rear brake pads you need to take them out of the caliper. the front often wears more than the back, so they look good from the part you can see, but can be bare metal on the other end. this happened to me in Dawson & it locked up the brake. I had to file a notch in the pad plate to clear the rotor & limp home.

[Mark R.]

Originally Posted by jeffsaline

I find the brake pads comment interesting.

I've got over 30,000 smiles on my 03 KLR650 with much off pavement riding locally in the Black Hills, the Great Divide Ride in 2004, a southwest trip in 2005, De Tour (about 3,500 smiles maybe 50% off pavement) in 2006, the Hole in the Wall (less than 1,000 smiles about 50% off pavement) in 2007 and lots more local riding on and off pavement. Last August I did part of a trip on the Oregon Trail. That was about 2,000 miles and mostly paved.

I'm still on my stock pads front and rear. Probably have another 6,000-8,000 smiles of life left in them.

I stay amazed at how folks go through brake pads so quickly. I recall some folks not getting 5,000 miles on front pads.

I usually bring some No Toil air filter maintenance products along but have never needed a new filter while on a trip.

Best,

Jeff

That is interesting. I got 7000 miles from my stock front pads. Seems a bit fast, but it is what it is.

[I say U he DEAD!]

Originally Posted by Mark R.

That is interesting. I got 7000 miles from my stock front pads. Seems a bit fast, but it is what it is.

depends on how ya ride . i cant see mine lasting 10000 i do alot of city riding (NYC) so I'm on my breaks constantly to avoid crashing in to "Muhammad" every 5 seconds .. those cabbies are f$%king CRAZY !!

[xracer]

I'm one of those goofs that likes to work on bikes and is all ways checking stuff. ( Means I get bored fast) Anyhow after 14k on my 08 the rear pads where getting thin but still with some miles left. The front? Glad I decided to pull the caliper and check. Dang near down to the metal! Now this is with little off-roading and just a few hundred miles in the Smokie's. Must be my Rossi style braking.
The plus side is I've got the chance to try out some EBC HH pads and dress out Triple-B with some stainless lines along with some more of Eagle Mikes screws and lowering kit.

[Gruf Rude]

Originally Posted by I say U he DEAD!

depends on how ya ride . i cant see mine lasting 10000 i do alot of city riding (NYC) so I'm on my breaks constantly to avoid crashing in to "Muhammad" every 5 seconds .. those cabbies are f$%king CRAZY !!

Good point. Out here in Wyoming, there are places I can ride where seeing another vehicle of any sort is kind of comforting . . .

That said, I just looked at my stock, original brake pads with 22,000 miles and there is still plenty of pad materiel there.

As poor as the '06 KLR's brakes are, I think I just got into the habit of riding slower, looking WAY ahead and anticipating and using engine braking instead of brakes a LOT, particularly up here in the mountains when loaded for camping. Side benefit is you don't get much brake dive when you don't use the brake much . . .

[2thumbs]

Some great advice - thank you all for your comments.
It sounds like I have most things covered, but I will get a spare clutch cable and water pump seals etc.
I like the idea of some compact jumper cables too - I did think about the kick starter kit but I can remember some real pain involved in kick starting my XT500 back in the eighties.
My bike is a 2003 but has only 8500kms on it.
I have changed all the fluids, oil filter, air filter. The bike is in excellent condition.
There is a new battery fitted and I have put a switch in so I can turn off the headlight.
What is the best way to disconnect the clutch and sidestand cutout switches ?

[Gruf Rude]

I went to the trouble of making short jumper wires with the correct ends to slip into the existing connectors, then unplugged the stock wires from the switch and jumped them with the wires I made.

Should be plenty of articles here on how to do it.

[Mark R.]

Originally Posted by 2thumbs

Some great advice - thank you all for your comments.
It sounds like I have most things covered, but I will get a spare clutch cable and water pump seals etc.
I like the idea of some compact jumper cables too - I did think about the kick starter kit but I can remember some real pain involved in kick starting my XT500 back in the eighties.
My bike is a 2003 but has only 8500kms on it.
I have changed all the fluids, oil filter, air filter. The bike is in excellent condition.
There is a new battery fitted and I have put a switch in so I can turn off the headlight.
What is the best way to disconnect the clutch and sidestand cutout switches ?

You can cut the wires going to each switch, and solder them to each other, to complete the circuit. Shrink wrap the soldered area, and you are done.

[Gruf Rude]

Originally Posted by Mark R.

You can cut the wires going to each switch, and solder them to each other, to complete the circuit. Shrink wrap the soldered area, and you are done.

If I remember correctly, on some models there might be THREE wires up at the clutch switch and if so, do NOT solder all three together or you will get some weird reaction from the neutral light. Again, IIRC, the black/ yellow is jumped to the red/blue wire on my '06, while the light green wire remains connected as stock. HOWEVER, we're dealing with an aging memory here, so double-check me on this . . .

[Mark R.]

Originally Posted by Gruf Rude

If I remember correctly, on some models there might be THREE wires up at the clutch switch and if so, do NOT solder all three together or you will get some weird reaction from the neutral light. Again, IIRC, the black/ yellow is jumped to the red/blue wire on my '06, while the light green wire remains connected as stock. HOWEVER, we're dealing with an aging memory here, so double-check me on this . . .

Could be. I am coming from experience with my 2008.

[2thumbs]

Good stuff - thanks again.
Peter