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Old 11-14-2017, 11:12 PM   #61
GoMotor
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Default Re: Gen 1: Oil leak and engine dead

I doubt you will have any luck at a hardware store.
For $19 you can get an extended idle mixture screw with a thumb wheel for easy adjustment. here: https://cv-performance.com/ez-just-mixture-screw

Scroll down and you will see the spring, washer and rubber O-ring for $9

So, you can get the washer and o-ring for $9 but I would get the extended idle mixture screw also.

These items have been working in my carburetor for a few years.

Last edited by GoMotor; 11-14-2017 at 11:13 PM.
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Old 11-15-2017, 12:35 AM   #62
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Default Re: Gen 1: Oil leak and engine dead

Sure they came out? I've lost mine more than once, were still in the carb.
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Old Yesterday, 10:01 PM   #63
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Default Re: Gen 1: Oil leak and engine dead

My carb rebuild kit from allballsracing came in, but I only used the washer and o-ring from it. I assumed all the rest of my stuff I put in the carb bath was good, but my engine still isn't running properly.

The bike started after a some trying -- choke fully closed (or however you call it when it's the way you would start a very cold engine), big doses of throttle -- and runs for about 20 seconds... then it dies. The bike starts again after I do the same routine of twisting the throttle. If I were to continuously fuss with the throttle, I feel confident I could keep the bike running for as long as I'd like, but idling is not a reliable option. I took another video of the bike running:

https://youtu.be/VsdzxJA0YhI

I've got a few random thoughts at this point:
First of all, thanks again folks for walking me through the troubleshooting process here, I really appreciate it.

Maybe I've got a vacuum leak or a clogged pilot jet.

My vacuum leak idea is from the fact that I hear a weird chirping noise I don't recognize from the front of the bike, and also because sometimes (even before all this) when I'd be riding my bike, it would idle somewhere between 1200-1800 rpm. When I was messing with the bike this weekend, trying to get it to idle on its own, I noticed the idle go up and down (not just up) after the motor warmed up. Because it's cold up here in MA now, the hoses were stiff and I had a hard time getting the vacuum hose completely engaged with the barb coming off the gas tank. I got the mouth of it fully over and on, but maybe that's not good enough?

My clogged pilot jet idea is from the fact that I had an oil leak and the hole on that pilot jet is microscopic -- maybe some oil got in there and maybe I just didn't do a very good job of cleaning everything out. I soaked the removable bits in carb cleaner for about 24 hours, but I didn't use any compressed air or skinny wire to get into any of the jets or orifices.

Maybe my fuel/air mixture is totally off. I didn't order the extended idle mixture screw, so unless I get that or some sort of specialty tool to work with what I have (a recessed idle mixture screw), that process would be kind of nutty -- take the carb off, adjust, put it back on, test, repeat. I'm hoping that putting it to 1 3/4 turns out is good enough.

Speaking of the process of removing and installing that carb, maybe the ducts are creating a vacuum leak? I guess I can spray some propane or starter fluid around them to test? As I'm taking the carb off those ducts, it seems pretty abusive to the rubber, but I don't know of a gentle way to do it.

I noticed a bit of oil leaking from the valve cover gasket, but I'm reluctant to use gasket sealer because installing that cover is pretty rough. Did you guys move your cables and hoses to the side of your frame? Because I'm mashing into those and it's basically causing me to rub the gasket all over a bunch of exposed surfaces under the valve cover. I'm doing it as gingerly as possible, but I'm not confident that I could do it in a way that wouldn't get gasket sealer somewhere bad (on the camshaft, in the abyss, on a valve shim, etc.)

Is there an easy way to determine whether the fuel air mixture is too lean or too rich? I don't smell any gasoline, and the fact I'm able to start the bike relatively quickly after it dies makes me think the engine isn't flooded -- but I do need to give the throttle a twist to get it to start, so maybe it's just too lean?

Also, while disassembling my carburetor, I noticed some pitting where the pilot jet goes, and a faint ring around the tip of the float needle. I don't know what to make of the scoring/pitting, but the float needle looks fine?

https://imgur.com/a/aNsgq

My next steps:
  • Fully engage the vacuum on the gas tank barb, do not proceed until confirming this is not the problem
  • Replace everything inside the carb with what I've already paid for in my carb rebuild kit instead of trying to save it for later
  • Try again. If still no luck, spray something flammable around the carburetor to test for vacuum leak. At this point, decide to take the bike to the dealership and let them deal with it... or order an extended idle mixture needle to fool around with and a brass choke plunger.
  • Re-route wires and cables and tubes and whatnot to make enough clearance under the "spine" of the frame to delicately get some gasket sealer in place to restore the seal along the top of the valve cover... or again, pay a shop to do it.

Last edited by imac611; Yesterday at 10:04 PM.
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Old Yesterday, 10:16 PM   #64
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Default Re: Gen 1: Oil leak and engine dead

If you want to try it out with my carb let me know.
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