SiteLock
Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder - KLR650.NET Forums - Your Kawasaki KLR650 Forums Resource! - The Original KLR650 Forum!
KLR650.NET Forums - Your Kawasaki KLR650 Forums Resource! - The Original KLR650 Forum!
Go Back   KLR650.NET Forums - Your Kawasaki KLR650 Forums Resource! - The Original KLR650 Forum! > KLR650 Discussion Forums > Procedures & How To Articles
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read
Procedures & How To Articles KLR650 Modifications, Procedures, Tech Info


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-15-2012, 04:43 PM   #1
jeffsaline
 
Super Cool Since: Apr 2008
Locale: Rapid City, South Dakota
Postings: 9,347
jeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the rough
Default Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

I've recently cleaned two fuel cap vents and took a few pictures along the way. This might be helpful for folks wanting to clean the valves or lock cylinder. Lots of pictures so it might take a while for me to fully load the work I did.

This was done using a 2003 fuel cap but I'll guess other years are identical.

Shows the fuel cap being removed from the fuel tank.




Shows the fuel cap removed from the tank and ready for vent cleaning.



Shows the exterior fuel cap cover removed.


Shows the fuel cap interior cover removed.


Shows the fuel cap spring retainer removed.


Shows the springs around the perimeter of the cap. The brass plate covers the umbrella valves and helps locate the lock parts. Note the bushing pointed out by the phillips screwdriver tip.


Shows the springs removed from the perimeter of the cap. The brass plate and lock parts are on top of the umbrella valves and lock cylinder.


Next post going to remove the valves and then the lock cylinder.

Best,

Jeff
__________________
Jeff Saline

Do Not Steal, Do Not Lie, Do Not Be Lazy

"Just because something isn't true, no reason you can't believe it." Hub McCann in Secondhand Lions

"If you don't have a time table you can't be late. When you don't have a destination you can't get lost." Colin Stafford-Johnson, Ireland's Wild Coast

Last edited by Robert Z; 01-11-2017 at 12:57 AM.
jeffsaline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2012, 04:50 PM   #2
jeffsaline
 
Super Cool Since: Apr 2008
Locale: Rapid City, South Dakota
Postings: 9,347
jeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the rough
Default Re: Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

Shows the top umbrella valve and holder being removed. This valve is responsible for allowing outside air into the tank. In other words this allows the tank to suck in outside air but not pass fuel out if the tank is inverted.



This is the gasket between the top and bottom umbrella valve holders. Note the small hole in the edge of the gasket. This allows air to pass from outside the tank, through the bottom umbrella valve holder and gasket to the upper umbrella valve.


Shows the bottom umbrella valve and holder removed from the cap. This umbrella valve is responsible for allowing high pressure in the tank to be relieved. Or in other words, this allows the tank to vent pressure to outside the tank.


Shows the umbrella valves at the top. Note the difference in the holders and the small hole in the bottom umbrella valve holder. This hole allows passage of air outside the tank to the area between the umbrella valves and into the tank to prevent vacuum in the tank.


Next is showing how to check the vent passages.

Best,

Jeff
__________________
Jeff Saline

Do Not Steal, Do Not Lie, Do Not Be Lazy

"Just because something isn't true, no reason you can't believe it." Hub McCann in Secondhand Lions

"If you don't have a time table you can't be late. When you don't have a destination you can't get lost." Colin Stafford-Johnson, Ireland's Wild Coast

Last edited by Robert Z; 01-11-2017 at 12:58 AM.
jeffsaline is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored links
Old 04-15-2012, 05:26 PM   #3
jeffsaline
 
Super Cool Since: Apr 2008
Locale: Rapid City, South Dakota
Postings: 9,347
jeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the rough
Default Re: Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

Shows stripped fuel cap and diagram showing vent passages in red.


Shows spray straw in place to check for vent clog.


Shows spray lube coming out vent indicating no clog.


Shows spray straw in place to test vent to determine if clear.


Shows spray coming out the vent indicating no clog.


Shows the bottom view of the cap. Note the sealed vent passage from the bottom of the picture at 7 o'clock going to the middle of the cap to the left of the lock cylinder. This is not removable. It is a sealed part of the cap vent system.


**CAUTION** NEVER blow compressed air into the cone shaped nipple when the cap is assembled. If you do the top umbrella valve could/will be forced partially through the hole in the brass plate holding the valve in place. If the umbrella valve is torn replacements are not available via retail sources.
__________________
Jeff Saline

Do Not Steal, Do Not Lie, Do Not Be Lazy

"Just because something isn't true, no reason you can't believe it." Hub McCann in Secondhand Lions

"If you don't have a time table you can't be late. When you don't have a destination you can't get lost." Colin Stafford-Johnson, Ireland's Wild Coast

Last edited by Robert Z; 01-11-2017 at 12:59 AM.
jeffsaline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2012, 07:35 PM   #4
jeffsaline
 
Super Cool Since: Apr 2008
Locale: Rapid City, South Dakota
Postings: 9,347
jeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the rough
Default Re: Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

Shows latch and spring removed from interior cap.



Shows latch and spring positioned for installation in interior cap. Push the latch toward the spring and push down on the center to compress the spring. It's easier this way than putting the latch in place and then trying to compress the spring and properly locate it. Lightly lube the parts. I use Molykote 44 Light.



Shows the latch and spring properly positioned in the interior cover. Make sure you test the latch operation a time or two by pushing on it from the exterior of the cover.

__________________
Jeff Saline

Do Not Steal, Do Not Lie, Do Not Be Lazy

"Just because something isn't true, no reason you can't believe it." Hub McCann in Secondhand Lions

"If you don't have a time table you can't be late. When you don't have a destination you can't get lost." Colin Stafford-Johnson, Ireland's Wild Coast

Last edited by Robert Z; 01-11-2017 at 01:00 AM.
jeffsaline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2012, 10:22 PM   #5
jeffsaline
 
Super Cool Since: Apr 2008
Locale: Rapid City, South Dakota
Postings: 9,347
jeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the rough
Default Re: Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

Shows the cap with umbrella valves removed. Note the brass tab on the lock cylinder at the 11 o'clock position. With the key in the lock the tab is moved to the center of the lock cylinder and the cylinder is turned clockwise. The cylinder can then be removed by gently pulling on the key.



Shows an exacto knife blade being used to move the brass tab towards the center of the lock cylinder for cylinder removal. Remember, once the tab is moved to the center of the cylinder the key and cylinder must be turned clockwise and then pulled out (down) from the cap. After the cylinder is cleaned and the bore of the cap cleaned and lightly lubed (again I use Molykote 44 light) the cylinder is installed. It will only fit back in one way.



Shows the piece that connects the lock cylinder with the piece that connects to the latch. The seal is removable and note it goes with the lip up. It only fits on the lock cylinder one way. Again I use Molykote 44 light to lightly lube the seal.



Shows the lock connector in place on top of the lock cylinder. The seal may need to be gently pressed into the bore with a small screwdriver.

__________________
Jeff Saline

Do Not Steal, Do Not Lie, Do Not Be Lazy

"Just because something isn't true, no reason you can't believe it." Hub McCann in Secondhand Lions

"If you don't have a time table you can't be late. When you don't have a destination you can't get lost." Colin Stafford-Johnson, Ireland's Wild Coast

Last edited by Robert Z; 01-11-2017 at 01:01 AM.
jeffsaline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2012, 10:29 PM   #6
jeffsaline
 
Super Cool Since: Apr 2008
Locale: Rapid City, South Dakota
Postings: 9,347
jeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the rough
Default Re: Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

Shows the bottom umbrella valve GENTLY folded back to make sure it is not stuck to the holder. I use my finger, the screwdriver is only for the photo.



Shows the bottom umbrella valve in place on top of the first/bottom gasket.



Shows the second gasket in place on top of the bottom umbrella valve holder.



Shows the top umbrella valve GENTLY folded back to inspect it and make sure it's not stuck to the holder. I use my finger, the screwdriver is only for the photo.



Shows the top umbrella valve installed on top of the upper gasket, bottom umbrella valve and bottom gasket.

__________________
Jeff Saline

Do Not Steal, Do Not Lie, Do Not Be Lazy

"Just because something isn't true, no reason you can't believe it." Hub McCann in Secondhand Lions

"If you don't have a time table you can't be late. When you don't have a destination you can't get lost." Colin Stafford-Johnson, Ireland's Wild Coast

Last edited by Robert Z; 01-11-2017 at 01:03 AM.
jeffsaline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 02:13 PM   #7
revmaaatin
 
revmaaatin's Avatar
 
Super Cool Since: Sep 2007
Locale: South Dakota
Postings: 433
revmaaatin is on a distinguished road
Default Re: Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

Something of note:
Why/when would you want to clean your fuel cap?

Bottom line:
The fuel cap vent system is always important; it appears to become increasingly important With increasing OAT, If the gas tank is not venting properly, fuel will not flow correctly. Just so you know, all bikes in this post have had the T-mod done and the vent lines are free and clear.

Background:
Both Jeff and my bike presented a fuel starvation/engine stumbling with higher OAT's.
Note: Our two incidents occur one year year apart.

In my case, the problem presents itself as fuel starvation; it starts easily reguardless of OAT, but , stumbles along at low power. AT temps above 95F my bike would not make 35mph, third gear, WOT. Oddly enough, as I climbed in altitude and the air got cooler, the bike ran better. I knew it was not altitude realted, as lower altitudes and early morning temps below ~95F the bike ran fine.


During my incident, my son was also his riding his own KLR; we bought gas in identical locations, using the same pump. His bike developed no problems. So it was a bike specific problem, not an outside problem such as fuel quality

Even though I initially thought it might be the gas, as we were both forced to buy 10% ethanol in the Yellowstone NP, it only occurred with my bike (daily) at increased OAT, even after many miles and gallons of gas consumed/replaced.

For me, the stumbling, never really a miss, and lower power began at temps ~95F and above; Jeff's temps actual temps might have been over 100F--the result were the same, the bike lost power and would hardly pull itself along. Jeff and I talked about this occasionally during the next year (prior to his bike developing a problem), but did not have a solid diagnosis/fix until his bike presented an identical scenario.


Through a number of thoughts and reiterations,
I initially attempted all sorts of (daily) minor trail side fixes-- I suffered through this for some 5 days before getting home again:
drain the carb; drain it again. (daily)
Try running on reserve, drain the carb again,
wrapping the fuel hose with insulated bubble wrap,
check the air filter = acceptable,
throwing rocks at the bike,
drain the carb again.

Later, during the year between the our individual incidents, someone (correctly) suggested opening the fuel cap and riding with the cap open to isolate the venting system--which I think Jeff was able to do to help verify his problem. He had a clear fuel filter that was not fully charged; when he opened the gas cap, while the bike was running, and wa-lah--mr. fuel flowed normally.

In his post, Jeff has warned: Do not blow compressed air into the system!
Initially, Jeff and I blew compressed air into the system (using his very high quality and highly regulated air compressor) at only 5, then 10, max 15psi. I believed at the time it largely cleared my gas cap problem. Not fully tested yet but that will come later!

After some other list -people reported similar problems, Jeff suggested we surgically look into my cap. The initial pictures Jeff posted are from my 98KLR gas cap. During full disassembly, we noted that the rubber mushrooms were not damaged; but understood how they could have been damaged using high pressure air. We also noted that the internal passages that he shows blowing WD-40 into, did not flow freely = compressed air did not full correct the problem. We liberally added darb cleaner to the vent system and now believe it to be 'free and clear'.

I would like to publically thank Jeff for his excellent write up and his personal help with my gas cap; age has not been kind to my near vision
and projects like this are just out of my 'reach' with the present vision technology I now own.

revmaaatin.
revmaaatin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2012, 09:19 PM   #8
Artful
KLR Enthusiast
 
Artful's Avatar
 
Super Cool Since: Sep 2011
Locale: Scottsdale AZ USA
Postings: 1,241
Artful is on a distinguished road
Default Re: Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

Nicely documented - thanks for posting
__________________
Gun control is like trying to stop drunk driving by making it harder for sober people to buy cars

Stolen from KY2008
Artful is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2012, 09:06 AM   #9
Vandergraf
Minneapolis, MN
 
Vandergraf's Avatar
 
Super Cool Since: Jan 2007
Locale: Minneapolis
Postings: 351
Vandergraf is on a distinguished road
Default Re: Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

Yes, nicely done. Thanks Jeff for the how-to and thanks revmaaatin for the clarification.
Vandergraf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2012, 09:31 PM   #10
joednf
Member
 
Super Cool Since: Dec 2009
Locale: Derry, PA
Postings: 12
joednf is on a distinguished road
Default Re: Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

Long story short, I lost the keys to my '97, and now I have a new ignition switch and gas cap lock and their attendant keys. It looks like ig switch replacement is plug-n-play (feel free to correct me if I'm wrong), but getting the old lock cylinder out of the old gas cap (yep, currently locked on the tank) looks to be a true pain. Anyone know how to open a locked cap, or remove the lock cylinder while the cap is on the tank? Thanks.

I know my sig says '86, must've had a flashback.
__________________
'86 KLR, Pirelli Scorpions, D-S highway pegs, centerstand, H-T fork brace, Wolfman tank bag, EK chain w/screw-on m-link, Dennis Kirk top box.
Stablemates:
'94 Ducati SS 900 CR
'85 900 Ninja
'68 H-D FLH
'72 Aermacchi/H-D SX 350 Sprint
joednf is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored links
Old 06-07-2012, 09:58 PM   #11
jeffsaline
 
Super Cool Since: Apr 2008
Locale: Rapid City, South Dakota
Postings: 9,347
jeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the rough
Default Re: Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

Quote:
Originally Posted by joednf View Post
Long story short, I lost the keys to my '97, and now I have a new ignition switch and gas cap lock and their attendant keys. It looks like ig switch replacement is plug-n-play (feel free to correct me if I'm wrong), but getting the old lock cylinder out of the old gas cap (yep, currently locked on the tank) looks to be a true pain. Anyone know how to open a locked cap, or remove the lock cylinder while the cap is on the tank? Thanks.

I know my sig says '86, must've had a flashback.
What I would do is drill a hole over each hinge screw and remove them through the round plastic cover. Then I'd work the hinged side up while playing with the other side to get it to slip the latching action.

I think if a guy was careful with the drill and didn't go overly large a couple of plugs could be inserted and not look to obvious.

I'm thinking 1/4" or smaller would be a good start and then increase the size of the drill bit as correct hole placement is determined. I doubt a guy would have to go over 7/16".

Best,

Jeff
__________________
Jeff Saline

Do Not Steal, Do Not Lie, Do Not Be Lazy

"Just because something isn't true, no reason you can't believe it." Hub McCann in Secondhand Lions

"If you don't have a time table you can't be late. When you don't have a destination you can't get lost." Colin Stafford-Johnson, Ireland's Wild Coast
jeffsaline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 08:01 AM   #12
Scoop and the Coons
A Regular
 
Scoop and the Coons's Avatar
 
Super Cool Since: Nov 2012
Locale: texas
Postings: 54
Scoop and the Coons is on a distinguished road
Default Re: Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

Jeff this was a great post and I want to thank you. Now I know why I had fuel leaking out of the lock cylinder!
Scoop and the Coons is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2013, 07:02 PM   #13
sub5pac3
Member
 
Super Cool Since: Dec 2012
Locale: New Mexico
Postings: 15
sub5pac3 is on a distinguished road
Default Re: Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

I recently had some issues with my fairly new 2012 KLR650 (~800 miles) where it was having problems cold-starting. It would turn over about 1-2 revolutions and then quit, sometimes even backfiring. The only way I could start it and keep it running was to hold the throttle open slightly when starting, then let it go -- all of this with full choke.

I read a similar thread regarding gas cap vents being a possible cause to this symptom, and I was also noticing a whistle sound and gas dripping out of the bottom of the overflow tube coming from the tank cap area when parked in the sun (maybe normal?).

Anyway, I took my cap apart as described here and noticed the orange/red mushroom valve (the flat one) was slightly torn at the stem so I removed it and reassembled the cap. Now there is no whistle noise when sitting in the sun and no dripping down the tube (but maybe I didn't observe it in the right conditions yet), but there is a very faint hiss sound from the gas cap.

Without that flat mushroom valve in place, I don't notice any problems -- no leaks from the cap or anything else. Based on the photos and diagrams shown here, it seems to me that without this mushroom in place it should still vent pressure properly down the tube but might not be perfectly sealed if the bike tips on its side for a few minutes. Is there any danger or concern of not having it there? Will fuel that gets splashed around in the tank make it up through the cap and down the hose and onto the ground as I ride it, or will that be a minimal amount?

Aside: for my original problem I also added fuel system cleaner (Techron from autozone), and my cold-start issues went away, so I'm not sure if the fuel cap had anything to do with that as it could have been caused by some gunk in the carb or something. I find that I no longer even need the choke to start at around 42 F.

Aside 2: according to the dealer, that little POS orange-red mushroom flap is part of the gas cap assembly (not sold separately) and replacing it will cost at least $60, so be very careful when performing this procedure. Since I took mine apart, it is likely not covered under warranty as I cannot guarantee that I was not the cause.

Aside 3: I live at about 5500 ft elevation -- not sure if that matters here.

Overall, I guess my main question is whether or not I should spend the money on a whole new gas cap assembly in order to replace that flat mushroom valve. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
sub5pac3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2013, 07:31 PM   #14
jeffsaline
 
Super Cool Since: Apr 2008
Locale: Rapid City, South Dakota
Postings: 9,347
jeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the rough
Default Re: Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

My guess is fuel delivery will be fine and for all practical purpose you won't be able to tell a difference otherwise.

I'll also guess the fuel delivery in a tip over out the cap will be significantly more than with the valve in place.

Without seeing the torn stem I'll suggest you could reinstall the valve and it would work well. The stem just holds the valve in place, it's the valve that does the air movement control.

I don't think I'd pay $60 for a new cap until what you I had proved faulty.

Best,

Jeff
__________________
Jeff Saline

Do Not Steal, Do Not Lie, Do Not Be Lazy

"Just because something isn't true, no reason you can't believe it." Hub McCann in Secondhand Lions

"If you don't have a time table you can't be late. When you don't have a destination you can't get lost." Colin Stafford-Johnson, Ireland's Wild Coast
jeffsaline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2016, 09:02 AM   #15
jeffsaline
 
Super Cool Since: Apr 2008
Locale: Rapid City, South Dakota
Postings: 9,347
jeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the rough
Default Re: Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

Until Glenn can get the photo section to marry with the threads the photos will be missing.

You can find the photos at https://www.klr650.net/photos .

I think this link will take you directly to my fuel cap vent section. https://www.klr650.net/photos/thumbnails.php?album=775 . The photos are kind of numbered so you can probably follow closely with the thread. You may have to jump around a bit to keep in order.

Best,

Jeff
__________________
Jeff Saline

Do Not Steal, Do Not Lie, Do Not Be Lazy

"Just because something isn't true, no reason you can't believe it." Hub McCann in Secondhand Lions

"If you don't have a time table you can't be late. When you don't have a destination you can't get lost." Colin Stafford-Johnson, Ireland's Wild Coast
jeffsaline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2016, 04:00 AM   #16
Bell driver
 
Bell driver's Avatar
 
Super Cool Since: Aug 2011
Locale: Germany
Postings: 907
Bell driver is on a distinguished road
Default Re: Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

Jeff, where did all the pictures go ?
__________________
1988 XLV750R
2008 XR650L
2008 KLR650E/685/MC, EM-T-Doo, TBob, KLX 42/142, Leovince X3, UNI, Slide, snorkle, AIS, 16/43, JNS skid plate,Wilbers shock & forks, EM-Fork brace, Subframe drill thru,...
Bell driver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2016, 09:38 AM   #17
jeffsaline
 
Super Cool Since: Apr 2008
Locale: Rapid City, South Dakota
Postings: 9,347
jeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the rough
Default Re: Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bell driver View Post
Jeff, where did all the pictures go ?
See post #75.

Best,

Jeff
__________________
Jeff Saline

Do Not Steal, Do Not Lie, Do Not Be Lazy

"Just because something isn't true, no reason you can't believe it." Hub McCann in Secondhand Lions

"If you don't have a time table you can't be late. When you don't have a destination you can't get lost." Colin Stafford-Johnson, Ireland's Wild Coast
jeffsaline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2016, 11:36 AM   #18
brucen
A Regular
 
Super Cool Since: Apr 2016
Locale: San Diego CA
Postings: 60
brucen is on a distinguished road
Default Re: Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

Hi Jeff

Chuck B directed me to this post. My tank is not venting. The pressure buildup is great enough to flex the walls of the tank if the bike (2016 California model) sits in the sun for a while. Do you think that squirting some WD40 into the vent holes will be enough to free up the valves? Since the bike is under warranty I don't want to disassemble it. If that is necessary I will see about getting the cap replaced by the dealer.

Thanks
brucen is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2016, 11:44 AM   #19
jeffsaline
 
Super Cool Since: Apr 2008
Locale: Rapid City, South Dakota
Postings: 9,347
jeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the roughjeffsaline is a jewel in the rough
Default Re: Fuel Cap Vent and Lock Cylinder

Quote:
Originally Posted by brucen View Post
Hi Jeff

Chuck B directed me to this post. My tank is not venting. The pressure buildup is great enough to flex the walls of the tank if the bike (2016 California model) sits in the sun for a while. Do you think that squirting some WD40 into the vent holes will be enough to free up the valves? Since the bike is under warranty I don't want to disassemble it. If that is necessary I will see about getting the cap replaced by the dealer.

Thanks
My guess is WD-40 might loosen the valves for a short time but might also act like a glue sticking them sealed.

If you don't want to take the cap apart the warranty action by the dealer might be a good idea.

Best,

Jeff
__________________
Jeff Saline

Do Not Steal, Do Not Lie, Do Not Be Lazy

"Just because something isn't true, no reason you can't believe it." Hub McCann in Secondhand Lions

"If you don't have a time table you can't be late. When you don't have a destination you can't get lost." Colin Stafford-Johnson, Ireland's Wild Coast
jeffsaline is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
cap, cylinder, fuel, lock, vent

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
© Copyright KLR650.NETAd Management by RedTyger