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Procedures & How To Articles KLR650 Modifications, Procedures, Tech Info


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Old 01-13-2008, 09:06 PM   #1
Daggy
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Default carb shimming ... with pics!

Ok, there's lots of talk about the carb mods and related items, but few pictures our site here.

So, I says to myself, "Self, why don't you post some pics?"

Here it is.

Disclaimer #1: I don't claim to know everything about this carb and mods, and especially how it will affect yours if you so choose to modify. I am not a factory-trained Kawasaki technician, but I may play one on T.V. one day ... and forgive me if I inadvertently leave some small detail out.

- Basically, the mod is to shim the main jet needle up with a washer. This richens the fuel/air mixture. Also usually included with this mod is to enlarge the hole in the bottom of the slide leading to the vacuum chamber under the slide diaphragm; this increases slide response according to throttle input.

- The other mod is to remove the factory plug covering the idle mixture screw, allowing you to adjust the idle mixture. That is free.

The carb doesn't have to be completely removed to do these mods, but make sure to clean yer bike, cause dirt in your carb will cause you trouble. That is one guarantee I can make! If you're considering the subframe bolt upgrade and airbox mods, this might be a good time to do all three, as it's easier with all the parts off!

Disclaimer #2: These carb mods may and will change the exhaust emissions on your already environmentally friendly, fuel-sipping, KLR. Some environmentalists and EPA officials may be alarmed at this ... that's for the "Off Topic Discussion"

Here goes:
1) Pull the tank and associated parts to easily see what you're doing.

2) Pull the fuel enrichment assembly from the left side of the carb. Be careful, as it's plastic and easily breakable:







Yes, that one is hard to get on and off ...

3) Pull the throttle cables off the right side:





4) Loosen the hose clamps on the carb inlet and outlet:





You can then rotate the carb to the right like this to access the vacuum chamber & screws on the top:



Stand by; more on the way ... (The 2 y/o needs milky ...)
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Old 01-13-2008, 10:40 PM   #2
Daggy
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Default Re: carb mods ... with pics!

Once you have the carb rotated, you can pull the vacuum chamber.

5) Pull the vacuum chamber cover off. Be careful! Hold the cover down with one hand while pulling the screws. There's a huge spring under it and it might fly out on ya:



6) The diaphragm is very delicate (& expensive), so be careful not to damage or tear it while pulling it out:



Yes, in some of my older pics, I had the carb out of the bike ...


Be careful not to damage the main jet needle also.

The large spring holds down the slide assembly via the plastic "crown" piece which holds down the main jet needle in the bottom of the slide. They just sit in there. Simple, isn't it?

7) The washer is a #4; small washer. There's lots of different opinions on how thick it should be, and I certainly don't know. Most guys I think say about .020"-.025". Some others say they had to stack a couple atop each other.
Stainless is probably best, as regular steel can and will rust.
My bike was popping on decel badly, so I picked up a nylon washer from my hardware store that was .034", as can be seen on my main needle:





I took it to some sandpaper and thinned it a bit:



I don't know if it's the right thickness, as it got cold here before I could fully test it out. (My bike won't warm up at 30 degrees or less! )

8 ) The other mod is to enlarge the air hole leading to the topside of the diaphragm. I don't have a pic of this.
This is the hole on the bottom of the slide towards the side. It's said to drill it out to 7/64", which isn't very much bigger than stock. This is the one mod that you can't go back on. If you're unsure about doing it, I'd say hold off and try the shim first, then drill at will! And keep the drill filings out of the carb!

9) Everything gets reinstalled in the reverse order, with the exception of adding the shim washer on the needle.
Can I say again how imporant it is to be careful with the diaphragm? Do so. If it doesn't stay in the groove, use a little Vaseline or dielectric grease in the groove. A couple small dabs will do:



Don't forget the big spring under the cover ...

To be continued ...
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Old 01-13-2008, 11:08 PM   #3
Daggy
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Default Re: carb mods ... with pics!

10) The other part of the carb mod is to remove the factory anti-tamper plug covering the idle mixture screw on the bottom of the carb. It's the long tube in front of the float bowl.
Drill a small hole in the welch plug, being careful about going in, as the spinning drill will hit and screw the idle screw in and might do some damage. Drill carefully:



11) Screw a small screw into the plug and pull it out firmly with pliers:



12) Now you can adjust the idle screw with a small flat-blade screwdriver ... after cleaning up all the drillings:



Most of the guys say to lightly seat the screw and turn it out 2 - 2 1/2 turns. Again, this is something you may have to play with.

I was taught how to adjust an idle setting:
- Fully warm the engine. Don't allow it to idle long before adjusting
- unscrew the idle screw a turn or two
- while idling, s-l-o-w-l-y turn the idle screw in; the rpm will raise as it leans out (more will stall and quit) ... back out the screw 1.75 turns from fully seated. (edit)

That's just a real general adjustment, as your bike may need different. It's a compromise between good idling and good acceleration off idle.
You'll have to make yourself a tiny screwdriver to adjust it as there is very little room under the carb ...






In a nutshell of a few posts, that's the carb mod!

Please feel free to add and comment at will ...
Again, I make no claim to any of this ...
I am not aware of this or any other mod, nor am I at liberty to say if in fact this does exist ...

Later,
Dave
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